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Your guide to Nagoya

Your guide to Nagoya tickets

Nagoya occupies a position that Japan's tourist infrastructure has long undervalued, sitting between Kyoto and Tokyo on the Tokaido Shinkansen corridor and absorbing the traffic of travellers passing through rather than stopping. That is a miscalculation on the part of those travellers. The city is the capital of Aichi Prefecture, the industrial and commercial engine of the Chubu region, and the ancestral home of three of Japan's most consequential historical figures: Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu, all of whom were born or raised in what is now greater Nagoya. That concentration of feudal power shaped the city's character in ways still visible today, from the reconstructed tenshu of Nagoya Castle, with its famous gilded shachihoko dolphins on the roof ridge, to the broad, grid-planned avenues that reflect centuries of deliberate civic ambition.

The castle district anchors the north of the central city, while Sakae functions as the commercial and entertainment core, a dense grid of department stores, covered shotengai arcades, and the cylindrical Nagoya TV Tower rising above Hisaya Odori Park. Osu, a short walk south-west of Sakae, is the neighbourhood that rewards slower attention: its covered shopping streets mix Buddhist temple precincts with vintage clothing shops, electronics stalls, and the kind of cheap, excellent teishoku lunch sets that Nagoya's working population has relied on for generations. The city's own culinary identity, known locally as Nagoya-meshi, is assertive and specific, built around hatcho miso, a deeply fermented soybean paste aged in cedar barrels in nearby Okazaki, and applied to everything from miso katsu to miso nikomi udon.

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